How to Prevent and Manage Common Rock Climbing Injuries
Rock climbing is an exhilarating, full-body sport that tests your physical limits and mental focus. But with the thrills come some risks, and injuries can happen. Finger injuries, shoulder strains, and elbow pain are common among climbers, but with the right knowledge, you can work to prevent them.
In this guide, we’ll explore common rock climbing injuries, why they happen, and simple, practical tips to keep you climbing strong and safe.
What Types of Rock Climbing Injuries Are There?
Rock climbing demands strength, balance, and technique, but the physical challenges involved can sometimes lead to injuries. While each climber's experience is unique, certain injuries tend to happen more frequently.
The most common rock climbing injuries are overuse injuries of the upper extremity. Sixty percent at the hand/wrist and 40% at the shoulder/elbow; of the hand/wrist injuries, 52% involve the finger tendons (1).
Finger injuries and pulley tears
Finger injuries are among the most common climbing injuries, particularly pulley tears, which affect the flexor tendons. These injuries often occur when a climber places excessive force on a single finger or holds body weight with a flexed grip, leading to strain or even tearing of the tendons supporting the fingers. Symptoms include swelling, bruising, and pain along the injured finger.
To reduce the risk of pulley tears, warm up those fingers, use open-hand grips when you can, and build up gradually to tougher climbs. If you do injure a finger, rest, ice, and rehabilitation exercises can help bring strength and mobility back.
Fatigue of finger and elbow flexors occur before shoulder fatigue sets in, so building adequate strength in these regions is key, not only for performance, but for injury prevention (2).
Shoulder injuries in rock climbing
Shoulder injuries are another common setback, often due to the huge range of motion and strength climbing places on the shoulder joint. Rotator cuff injuries are particularly common, as these muscles are responsible for stabilizing the shoulder joint during every reach and pull.
Prevention is all about strengthening the rotator cuff and shoulder joint and working on climbing technique to avoid overextending. Physical therapy is also a great resource for climbers dealing with shoulder injuries, helping to restore movement and strength so you can get back to the wall.
Elbow injuries and climber’s elbow
Elbow injuries, like climber’s elbow (or medial epicondylitis), are classic overuse injuries. This happens when the tendons on the inner part of the elbow get inflamed from repetitive pulling and gripping—movements that are second nature in climbing.
Signs of climber’s elbow include pain, stiffness, and a weaker grip. Rest, ice, and targeted exercises can help alleviate the strain, while taking regular breaks and focusing on good form can help prevent the injury from happening in the first place.
Wrist injuries in climbing
The wrists work hard in climbing, bearing body weight and enduring repetitive strain. Poor positioning or technique can lead to wrist sprains or strains, which are considered the most common wrist injury among climbers. Wrist pain is often a sign of strain that, if left untreated, can become a more serious climbing injury.
To keep your wrists healthy, practice proper form, align your body during climbs, and strengthen the wrist muscles. For those experiencing wrist pain, rest, ice, and conditioning exercises can be helpful steps for preventing it from becoming a more serious injury.
Knee and ankle injuries
Lower body injuries, like knee and ankle issues, might not be as common as upper body strains, but they can still put a damper on climbing. These often occur during foot placements or jumps. Twisting the knee can lead to meniscal tears, while unstable landings can result in ankle sprains.
Rehabilitation for these injuries often involves physical therapy to restore strength and flexibility. Practicing footwork techniques, wearing supportive climbing shoes, and avoiding high-impact jumps can go a long way toward keeping your knees and ankles safe.
Acute vs. Overuse Injuries in Rock Climbing
What are overuse injuries?
Overuse injuries build up over time, especially when the same movements are repeated without adequate recovery. Climbing injuries like climber’s elbow, rotator cuff strains, and finger injuries often develop gradually, but they can worsen if not managed properly.
Taking rest days, varying climbing routes, and working on flexibility and strength can help you avoid overloading specific muscles and joints.
How to prevent acute injuries
Acute injuries, on the other hand, happen suddenly—a slip, a fall, or a misstep can lead to issues like ankle sprains or shoulder dislocations. Staying focused, using proper safety equipment, and warming up can help reduce your risk of these sudden setbacks.
What Factors Can Put You at Risk of Injury?
Technique and form-related injuries
Good technique is crucial to prevent climbing injuries. Poor form can overburden specific joints, like the shoulders and elbows, during challenging moves. Practicing proper technique and using your whole body rather than relying on fingers and arms alone can help prevent injuries like wrist pain and tendon strains.
The importance of warming up for rock climbing
A solid warm-up helps prepare your muscles and joints for climbing. Start with dynamic stretches, mobility exercises for your wrists and shoulders, and a few easy climbs to activate your muscles without strain. This simple step can be a game-changer for reducing common climbing injuries.
Overtraining and climbing injuries
Overtraining can increase fatigue and elevate the risk of overuse injuries, especially when climbers push themselves to improve quickly. Monitor your training intensity, take rest days, and be mindful of any early signs of strain or fatigue to prevent injuries related to overtraining.
Strengthening and Conditioning
Build strength to support the rotator cuff and shoulder joint
Strengthening your rotator cuff and shoulder muscles is one of the best ways to keep your shoulders strong and stable. Exercises like resistance band shoulder rotations, scapular retractions, and rows can build strength and stability, providing support for demanding climbs.
Flexibility and stretching exercises
Climbers need flexibility to reach and stabilize in tough positions. Stretching your fingers, wrists, and elbows before and after climbing can help prevent injuries and keep your joints mobile. Climbing-specific stretches, like finger extensions and shoulder rotations, are especially beneficial.
Core and body weight conditioning
Core strength is critical for climbers, as it provides balance and stability on the wall. Exercises like planks, leg raises, and bodyweight squats improve your control and reduce strain on your hands, wrists, and shoulders. A strong core is key to moving with precision and protecting your body.
Treatment and Rehabilitation for Climbing Injuries
If you’re dealing with a rock climbing injury, physical therapy is an excellent step toward recovery. Physical therapists can assess the injury, create a personalized rehab plan, and guide you through exercises to rebuild strength and mobility. For shoulder injuries and rotator cuff tears, physical therapy is particularly valuable for safe and effective healing.
Curious about physical therapy for climbing injuries? Feel free to request an appointment!
Steps to safely return to climbing post-injury
Returning to climbing after an injury takes patience and gradual reconditioning. Start with easier climbs, and avoid moves that put too much strain on the recovering joint or muscle. Working with a physical therapist to create a reintroduction plan allows you to balance recovery with getting back to the sport safely.
Summing up:
Rock climbing is an incredibly fun and active sport, but injuries are a reality climbers should be mindful of. By learning about common rock climbing injuries and taking preventive steps, you can stay healthier and climb stronger for longer.
Focus on technique, conditioning, and listening to your body’s signals—these practices are essential for staying safe on the wall. And if you’re working through an injury, a physical therapist can help guide your recovery to ensure a sustainable, safe return to climbing.
About the Author: Sarah Jay, PT, DPT:
Sarah completed her Doctorate of Physical Therapy from Howard University in 2014 and graduated from UC Irvine in 2009 with a bachelors in Public Health. She has worked in the physical therapy field since 2008 where she started as a physical therapist aide and found her calling. Sarah believes that rehab is a team effort and encourages her patients to be active in their recovery process by creating individualized and innovative treatment plans that meet the patient’s goals. She has experience working with a variety of patients from the grandparent who wants to play with their grandchildren to the athlete who wants to complete an ultra marathon. Sarah is excited to get her patients moving and doing what they love. In addition, when not treating patients, Sarah enjoys rock climbing, hiking, photography, traveling, and food.
References:
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- Chang, C. Y., Torriani, M., & Huang, A. J. (2016). Rock Climbing Injuries: Acute and Chronic Repetitive Trauma. Current Problems in Diagnostic Radiology, 45(3), 205–214. doi:10.1067/j.cpradiol.2015.07.003
- Deyhle, M. R., Hsu, H.-S., Fairfield, T. J., Cadez-Schmidt, T. L., Gurney, B. A., & Mermier, C. M. (2015). Relative Importance of Four Muscle Groups for Indoor Rock Climbing Performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 29(7), 2006–2014. doi:10.1519/jsc.0000000000000823
- Lum, Z. C., & Park, L. (2019). Rock climbing injuries and time to return to sport in the recreational climber. Journal of Orthopaedics. doi:10.1016/j.jor.2019.04.001